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 The creation of an edged weapon is straightforward and simple . First you draw the outline of your weapon on the sheet brass . Pencil works, colored pencils work , markers work . Use what works for you . Whether you are making a sword , knife , spear , bow , scabbard , rifle , pistol etc. etc. this is how you start . It doesn't have to be detailed , just the outline or contour line of your weapon .   You then cut your weapon free from the brass sheet . Be sure to leave enough excess at the haft or handle to make a handle for you to hold as you tool it . At the gauge of .005 to .015 the brass is thin enough that you can use scissors to cut the shape out . At .032 gauge , the metal is heavy to the point that you will need tin snips , although I've rarely needed to utilize such a heavy gauge sheet for most of the weapons I've done at a scale comparable to a kini , that gauge would be more appropriate for a base .  The grinding of the cutting edge is done with the dremel using a silicon carbide grinding bit , a rounded cone-shaped toolbit . I 've found that this particular abrasive bit works best , giving minimal kickback and providing a smooth even grind . The cutting edge can also be done utilizing a flat file , or even a sharp X-Acto knife . The key here is to maintain a steady and consistent angle , around 30 to 45 degrees . Don't try to form your cutting edge in one pass , do it in several to insure that you don't take off too much material , remember , you'll need to do this to both sides . This is done on the bottom curved side on a katana , or both top and bottom of a two-edged weapon such as a broadsword or a dirk . 
 You've heard me mention jewellers files in previous " How to's " , and now we can get to the nitty gritty . I got my set when I first began sculpting 25 mm miniatures for the gaming industry , and they are a constant assistant on my miniature work . There are five in the set , though I tend to use 3 predominantly and I have pictured them to the left and right . The first, A , is a curved round file useful for removing burrs , rounding hard or sharp edges and caring in blood grooves in both metal and wood . The second, B , is useful for most of the same jobs as A with the addition of providing a sharper cut on a blood groove or for secondary smaller grooves adjascent to the primary center blood groove . It is the primary file used for finishing when I hand file swords or edged weapons when carving the cutting edge . The third, C , is a small scale flat file , great for general smoothing and filing and initial grinding of cutting edges as well as shaping the blade pattern . | Let's Paint ! | PaintinKini2 | Steve Zodiac Shockini Custom | Sword Making | Swordmaking1 | Swordmaking2 | WarhorsePreview | Simple Masks | EasyVelcro_fro | Cool Girl Wrist Conversion | samurai_saddle | DX Disaster | Fix It! Loose Ankles | Fun With Texture | Body Armor | OneSixthBlades | Body Armor2 | One Sixth Blades PT II | Otaku Repair 101 | | Mail-O-Rama | Geeb's How To | Head Sculpts Using Polymer Clay | Customizing The Batcycle | 1/6 scale diorama | terrain diorama | 1/6 Scale Boots | Re-Rooting Hair | BimBott | Read_A_Book | WorksInProgress | Aki Ross Repaint | Gun-Bashing | painting heads | | Return Home | Updates | The Archive | Gorby Site Map | Geeb-O-Rama's Model Workshop | Geeb's Toy Box | Geeb-O-Rama Goodies | Movie Madness | World Of The Bizarre | Cool Beans | |
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