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The Shockini is primed almost entirely in its complete form . Once the major portions have received 2 coats of primer I'll start turning my attention to the inner planes that can't be reached with the figure intact . The figure is popped at every ball and socket joint and primer is applied . It is at this stage that I will begin to smooth out any areas where the various layers of primer may not have blended smoothly or a dust particle or mote of dry primer may have gotten imbedded in the surface coat . Typically these instances occur along the outer edges or at the socket rims , where an acute angle is present . Sometimes they occur when you accidentally drop your kini in mid-prime on the carpet . DOH! One of the problems with an acrylic based primer applied to a non-porous surface , when using an abrasive sheet for smoothing , is the inevitability of peeling away from the surface . This however is not a major problem and is minimalized by using very fine micro abrasive sheets and smoothing in between layers of primer . By the time you have applied your final layer any areas that may have peeled will be covered up . Remember to dry sand when smoothing an acrylic base primer on a non-porous surface , never wet sand .   There are plenty of reasons I take the time to prime a figure for preparation to paint . In the case of a figure that has been customized , like 'ol Steve Zodiac , we have two different materials in use , the stock plastic of the Shockini and the Sculpey that was used to form his head , Tunic and boots . By priming the figure we are applying a uniform surface texture for the paint . Paint will behave differently on plastic from how it behaves on sculpey which means your paint job will have an inconsistant appearance without priming . After applying primer , both materials will share a consistant surface texture making your paint behave the same whether that particular piece is plastic or sculpey . Additionally , priming will accentuate flaws , allowing you to catch them early , which is far better than catching them after you've just finished an awesome paint job .  Priming your kini by hand , using a spray can or via airbrush all have advantages . The latter two have the benefit of speed , a spray can however is harder to control and you get a lot of overspray , the airbrush allows more control as far as the amount of primer applied , there is overspray but less than that of a spray can . However the primer needs to be thinned much more for optimum flow thru the air passages . Hand application with brush , while very time consuming allows optimum control and little to no waste . In the end it's up to you to decide which method you want to use , they all lead to the same place .   Coming Up Next : We Finally Get To Paint ! Happy , Happy , Joy , Joy! | Let's Paint ! | PaintinKini2 | Steve Zodiac Shockini Custom | Sword Making | Swordmaking1 | Swordmaking2 | WarhorsePreview | Simple Masks | EasyVelcro_fro | Cool Girl Wrist Conversion | samurai_saddle | DX Disaster | Fix It! Loose Ankles | Fun With Texture | Body Armor | OneSixthBlades | Body Armor2 | One Sixth Blades PT II | Otaku Repair 101 | | Mail-O-Rama | Geeb's How To | Head Sculpts Using Polymer Clay | Customizing The Batcycle | 1/6 scale diorama | terrain diorama | 1/6 Scale Boots | Re-Rooting Hair | BimBott | Read_A_Book | WorksInProgress | Aki Ross Repaint | Gun-Bashing | painting heads | | Return Home | Updates | The Archive | Gorby Site Map | Geeb-O-Rama's Model Workshop | Geeb's Toy Box | Geeb-O-Rama Goodies | Movie Madness | World Of The Bizarre | Cool Beans | |
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