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Sword Making In One Sixth Scale
     
  A Fantasy Broadsword
This broadsword , constructed to outfit my Vanir Warrior Woman utilizes many of the same techniques used for Estra La's Hand and a Half . The main blade is aluminum , the hilt and crossbars are brass snap fasteners and picture hooks , the pommel is a small brass finial and the handle sleeve is a steel cylinder from a telescoping arm ( from a broken desk lamp ; the ones also used in building my Sci-Fi diorama )



The Individual Parts

Separated into the individual component pieces , from top to bottom :
A . The aluminum Blade
B. Brass picture hook , bent in half , the hooks removed
C. Crossbars , the removed hooks from the brass picture hooks
D. Brass snap fastener , bent in half ( the neck has not yet been filed down )
E. Steel telescoping sleeve cylinder , hammered to shape
F. Brass finial


As with the majority of my swords , the construction is done with whatever I happen to have handy , and the shaping done the same way . I start the initial bends on the picture hooks and snap fastener with pliers , and then use a hammer over a simple form ( the back of a table knife handle , a strip of basswood , really whatever is suitable in size , shape and strength for the hammering ) . A dremel is used to execute the initial beveled edge of the sword blade as well as removing excess metal from all the parts . Jewellers rasps and rifflers are used for the more intricate shaping and cutting . To impress the lines in the steel handle sleeve , I inserted two thin wood slats thru the sleeve and placed the edge of a dull steel knife blade on the sleeve and hammered the indentation . The shaping of the handle sleeve where the brass finial inserts into the sleeve was accomplished by dremeling the sleeve with the finial in place , and using pliers to impress the notches .




Preliminary Sanding

Fine grit sandpaper is applied to the sword blade , to smooth out the major rough spots . It really isn't necessary to remove all the little nicks in the aluminum because they help give the impression that the blade is well used . A jeweller's file is used to strengthen the edge beveling . Some additional dremelling is done to the sword hilt as well as some more hammering with the hilt in place on the blade . At this point we're almost ready to start gluing the separate pieces together .



Polishing

Using a felt polishing wheel on the dremel , and polishing compound , the sword blade is given a final buffing . Note that I have gone back and notched the underlying brass hilt top with the dremel , done just to break up the semi-circular design of the picture hook .



A Fantasy Rapier

Creating a rapier can be done several ways , I originally thought about using a long sewing needle for the blade , but at $ 11.00 a needle I decided I'd take a cheaper route . The blade for this sword is an aluminum rod . The structure for the basket hilt is aluminum wire ( softer than the aluminum used for the blade and slightly thinner ) .



Close Up Of The Basket Hilt In Progress

A single length of wire is used to form the structure of the basket hilt , twisted around the aluminum rod blade . Metal and wood bead spacers are used to make the handle of the rapier . Tension alone holds the pieces together and the pommel is the endcap from an earring ( the post hold has been widened ) and is the only piece that has been cemented on .



The Diamond Shaped Blade

The hardest part about the rapier was shaping the blade itself , primarily because while the aluminum rod is stiff . it can still be bent if you're not careful . With the rod placed on a flat board , jewellers files are used to flatten the rod and give it a diamond shape . Once the diamond shape has been achieved , fine grit sandpaper is used to smooth .



Clik the Pic to Supersize It
Click picture to ZOOM






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